Home » African Cichlids » General Discussion » water parameters for each type of cichlid
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| Re: water parameters for each type of cichlid [message #9415] |
Sat, 05 April 2008 12:06   |
 dalton 
Messages: 12
Registered: February 2008
Location: AZ |
Junior Member |
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ypics,
Malawi Mother is right on for the pH requirements for all three, but I think that trying to obtain a pH of about 8.3 would be ideal for all three lakes.
I have seen people mix all three lakes, and not have any serious side effects, but I will not recommend it. While all three lakes have cichlids that have evolved in similar conditions (especially Tanganyika and Malawi) some times they aren't going to be as compatible as you might think. I always think of it like they speak different languages. Since fish can't communicate in the methods that we do, the rely strictly on color, and posture. The way a certain species of cichlid from Lake Victoria presents him self in a dominant manner, might be misconstrued by a cichlid from Tanganyika in a different manner. Most of the time this won't create a major problem, but the tank will ultimately be more enjoyable to watch, with more interesting interactions between your fish if they all "Speak the same language"
With that said, I'll recommend getting all of your fish from the same lake. Unless you are hell-bent on mixing them, then Lake Malawi cichlids mixed with Lake Victoria cichlids would be your best bet.
If you are looking for a good beginner set up, then Malawi will be your best bet. They are more readily available to hobbyists, so the selection will be much better. I wouldn't recommend starting with lots of mbuna types(Pseudotropheus, Metriaclima, Labidochromis, Cynotilapia, etc.) because they tend to be more aggressive. There are exceptions though. For example, you might look in to getting a small group of Labidochromis caeruleus (electric yellow cichlid) because they are cheap, common, and relatively docile. A very good beginner cichlid. And maybe try also adding a small group of peacocks (Aulonocara sp.). Most peacocks are peaceful in community tanks, and the males become very beautiful. I see lots of people attempting to obtain "pairs" of Lake Malawi cichlids, but since 99% cichlids from Lake Malawi are polygamous, there is no such thing as a "pair" of Malawi cichlids. Just an incomplete group. So always try to get your Cichlids from this lake in groups (many females to a few males). And please don't think that you have to get L. caeruleus and peacocks. Those are just suggestions. Do your research, talk to your LFS, and see what is available. Stock lists are always changing, so your selection will depend what is available at the time of purchase. If you are unsure, just post your questions here.
I would consider Lake Victoria cichlids to be about the same difficulty as most Malawi Cichlids, With a couple of exceptions. Since many are now extinct or a rare occurance in the wild, finding them is becoming increasingly more difficult. You can usually pick up some of the common ones at the LFS, but they may be genetically inferior, and just poorer quality than a good pure strain. Expect to pay high dollar for some of the tougher to find species. Also, IME Lake Victoria cichlids tend to be a touch more aggressive than most cichlids from Lake Malawi, so they will need to be in an even larger group. And as far as I know they are all polygamous as well, so large groups are a must. Last but certainly not least, Most Cichlids from Lake Victoria look very similar, and are prone to cross breeding (which is really bad IMO), so they do better in species only tanks. There will always be exceptions, but this is a good generalization.
There are definitely some good beginner cichlids from Lake Tanganyika, though I still consider them requiring slightly more experience than Lake Malawi cichlids, you would certainly be able to pull it off if you were to try. The majority of Lake Tanganyika cichlids available through your LFS will probably be lamprologines (one of the larger tribes of cichlids from the lake). These guys aren't like the previously mentioned cichlids, because many of them are actually monogamous (at least when they breed) with some exceptions. They are also substrate/shell/cave spawning cichlids (as apposed to mouth brooding like nearly all Malawi Cichlids and Lake Victoria Cichlids). So you can likely pull these guys off in pairs. It is usually best to start with a group, and let them pair off. They can be very aggressive when it comes to breeding, so it's a good idea to have a quarantine tank ready, in case you need to relocate someone. There are tons and tons of varieties available, and they all behave differently, so research the ones that you get. While you won't get the near the color with cichlids from Lake Tanganyika that you will with cichlids from the other two lakes, they'll certainly make up for it with behavior. There are some very colorful cichlids from Lake Tanganyika, but they can be very difficult to care for, and set up correctly. I would not recommend them for a beginner. The main thing to do, is see what types are available to you, do your research, post your questions, and then make your decision.
I hope you find this information to be useful.
Thanks,
Keith
http://drywashaquarium.org/
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| Re: water parameters for each type of cichlid [message #9418] |
Sat, 05 April 2008 19:40 |
LeeAnn
Messages: 359
Registered: April 2002
Location: TX - Mrs. Gas |
Senior Member |
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I think Keith summed things up pretty well and I agree.
We readily mix species from Victoria and Malawi with success, and even have a few random Tanganyikans here and there. I find the torpedo-shaped Tanganyikans (such as the Lamp. leleupi, Telmatochromis, Julidochromis etc) are capable of holding their own in a mixed tank, but beware... they are highly territorial when breeding because unlike mouth-brooders, they lay their eggs on a surface and defend them very well... so if they're breeding, you may well end up with torn fins and maybe even a death her and there.
As for water parameters... don't sweat that too much, especially with Malawians and Victorians... they are very adaptable and will usually do just as well with neutral water as they will with hard alkaline water. Just because their native waters fall inside certain parameters doesn't mean they can't do just as well outside those parameters. Tangs can be a bit trickier, especially when it comes to breeding, but for the most part, unless you go into crazy soft, acidic water (think Discus), they should be fine in whatever you've got too. I find that playing chemist with the water causes more stress on the fish than it's worth. If you have soft or neutral water, try using crushed coral and limestone decor to naturally change the water parameters rather than using chemicals.
Lee Ann
http://www.africancichlids.net/
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| Re: water parameters for each type of cichlid [message #9483] |
Tue, 08 April 2008 00:18 |
LeeAnn
Messages: 359
Registered: April 2002
Location: TX - Mrs. Gas |
Senior Member |
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erm... probably not. Symphosodon are Discus, and are from the Amazon river area in South America... they require very soft water and are not at all capable of handling the aggression that the much more pugnacious African cichlids dish out.
The rest of them can go together if you acquire them at a similar size and raise them together, but be careful with the Tropheus... they have totally different dietary requirements from the others (they eat aufwuchs... algae mostly... in the wild), and foods that are too meaty can make them sick. Meaty foods are what the others need, so they might not make the best tank-mates unless you're very VERY careful about how you feed them. Also, Tropheus are kind of like yappy little hyper-active dogs and would probably annoy the snot out of the slower Altolamps and Cyphotilapias after a while.
Frontosa (cyphotilapia) as adults are big, slow-moving, dim-witted, somewhat nocturnal feeders that will eat any fish that will fit in its mouth... IF it can catch it. That's a big if. They like to feed in open water and at the surface, and since most of our aquarium cichlids 'sleep' near the floor of the tank, they're usually safe. The exception would be the open-water schooling types like Cyprichromis, which is the Frontosa's natural prey.
So in short, yeah, that group could work together, except for the Discus. If you love Discus, get a second tank and set that one up there for them... they really can't live with the Africans.
Lee Ann
http://www.africancichlids.net/
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could you pls make a suggestion regarding what fish to adopt.. i want an aquarium with fishes on all levels.. i want dwellers and fish on mid water and of course i want active fishes.. so that my child can watch them.. please suggest.. thanks!
thanks
regarding fishes to adopt, can i combine the following fishes? Altolamprologus,Cyphotilapia,Nimbochromis, Tropheus, and Symphysodon? love ya all 
maybe il follow your input regarding the discus. btw, in my choice of fishes is anyone of them a sand dweller? i want to see my tank with fish on the bottom and and i also love fish that will swim all the time.. i want my tank to look very colorful and busy so that my son [to be born this month] will also gain interest on this fishes.. 