| Forum: Tanks, Filtration, etc. |
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| Topic: Which Filter to use |
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| Which Filter to use [message #8765] |
Sat, 16 February 2008 22:32 |
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It is my opinion that good filtration is a must. When I say good filtration, I am talking about a filter that cirulates three times the size of the tank in GPH.
Here is example, If I purchase a 10 gal tank, I am buying a filter that will filter 30 gals in the same amount of time.
If I buy a filter for 50 gals of water, I am actually purchasing a filter that filters 150 gals of water in the same time.
I have actually had 2 HOB filters on one smaller aquarium to meet this.
This is the lowest amount of filtration I would recommend.
I think this is a good rule of thumb.
Please come visit me at www.atozthatsme.com
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| Topic: Attn: Tank Builders |
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| Attn: Tank Builders [message #8514] |
Fri, 18 January 2008 16:00 |
 jonstolarz 
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2008 |
Junior Member |
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Anybody out there that can build a between a 300 and 600 gallon all glass aquarium? Nothing fancy needed just a LARGE tank!! thank you for your time.
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| Topic: Cycling your tank |
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 Cycling your tank [message #7523] |
Tue, 03 July 2007 10:45 |
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The Nitrogen Cycle, you can look anywhere on the internet to find out exactly what the nitrogen cycle is but for here we are just going to explain how to get through it.
In order for a tank to have perfect water conditions, it must go through the nitrogen cycle. This cycle if done properly can take up to 8 weeks. There are short cuts as I have left a very good purely natural way to do it in 9 days. It can be found in Tanks, filtration, etc. When doing constant water changes and adding chemicals as a way to cut down on numbers during a new nitrogen cycle, it can make the cycle take even longer and sometimes not even finishing.
The one question I get asked more and more is "why are my numbers so high?"
I always ask, "how long has your tank been cycling?" This is what I hear, "well it's been running for months now" or "It's been running for a few week."
One of the biggest problems and I am no stranger to it myself is adding good fish that I want to keep before the tank has reached it's completed cycle. Let me just say this, if you add fish to your tank before a tank is cycled, there is a chance of losing some fish. This is why in my 9 day shortcut, I used little gold fish. They are little feeder fish and are very inexpensive. Less expensive then all the water changes and chemicals would cost separately.
When you can not get your tank to have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 15 or less on your nitrates, you have to rule out a few things, first and most important, did the tank go through it's cycle? Do you have dead fish in the tank hiding? Do you have proper water circulation (do you see water movement at the top of the water)? Do you have brown/red algae in the tank? Are you over feeding (do you see food landing in the bottom of the tank)? How long since you cleaned out your filter? Do you have real plants that are decaying in the tank? If you can answer any of these question yes, then this is why you have bad numbers. And let me also state that .25 or a little ammonia is not a good number. If your fish are constantly in .25 ammonia for months, you will lose fish to gill disease. You will start to see sick fish. I hear it all the time and I hear, "well my ammonia isn't bad or my ammonia is only .25". Another one I hear is, "my nitrates are only at 40 and my fish seem to be getting sick or not thriving" If your fish are in a constant 40ppm of nitrate, they will start to eventually show signs of breaking down. Or if your fish are in really good perfect water conditions and all the sudden in 40 ppm of nitrates, they will show signs of distress. Even though 40 is not extremely bad on nitrates, the fact is, they still aren't great. 40 means it's time to do a water change. It's a warning. If you don't take the warning, you pay the price. No tank should be left at 40 as a minimal on nitrates. This is pollution.
To get through the nitrogen cycle-
Put your gravel or sand in the tank. Make sure it's clean or rinsed. If you do any stirring of the gravel or sand, or crushed coral, do it now. Don't do it later and wonder why your water is cloudy. Put your filter in the tank. In order for the filter to do it's job cycling, it must have some source of ammonia to start with. There are a few different ways to achieve this.
1. Add live fish. Don't use your good fish if you plan on keeping them. Use some gold fish.
2. Get someone else's old filter media (free of disease) and use it in your own filter.
3. Put one capful of household pure ammonia (free of dyes and scents) in your tank with no fish.
4. Put a piece of raw fish about 4 ounces and let it decay in the tank.
5. Put a little fish food in every few days.
Do not do all these things at the same time. Pick one and stick with it. Be patient. "All good things come to those who wait".
Now after your tank has all the necessary equipment and you have water and your filter is running, Let it set for a few weeks. I should point out, unless you are using my "9 day cycle" these are the instructions that should be fallowed.
Do NO water changes, Do NOT change any filters, Do NOT add any chemicals. Do NOT stir sand, gravel, or crushed coral!!!
After a few weeks pass, start checking the numbers, write them down. Get an idea of what is happening in your tank. After about 4 weeks, you should see very little ammonia, high nitrites, and very little nitrates. It is very possible for these numbers to vary though. So you might see high ammonia and low nitrites and 10 nitrates. The point is to get a grasp on what part of the cycle you're in. High ammonia means you're in the first stage, high nitrites means you're in the second stage, high nitrates means you are nearing the end of the cycle. As ammonia or nitrites start to drop, you will see the next part of the cycle start to raise, ex. Ammonia is reading 3.0ppm and nitrites are reading .50 and nitrates are reading 10. This means you are nearing the end of the first part of the cycle. The nitrites will raise as high as they need to and the ammonia will start coming down. The nitrites will raise higher until the nitrates start to pick up. When you see numbers like ammonia at 0-.25ppm, nitrites 4.0ppm and nitrates at 20ppm, this means that you are starting to near the end of the second stage. Then the nitrates will sky rocket and I have witnessed them going as high as 160, the nitrites will be very low if not 0, and the ammonia will be at 0, then you know, it's time to do a 50 percent water change and recheck your nitrates the next day. If they are still very high then do another
25 percent water change. Your nitrates should drop to around 5-10. Congratulations, you have just cycled your tank.
Now let me just clarify that if you do not go through the natural cycle, your cycle will take longer in the end. Even if you use chemicals to lower ammonia or nitrites, you are just masking what you don't want to see. It will also mean confusion when you start seeing wacky numbers that don't seem to fall in sink with what I described above.
I have gone through my share of huge mishaps with uncycled tanks and let me tell you, it's no wonder people try aquarium keeping for awhile then give it up. They get frustrated and say the heck with it all. I know, I have been there.
Do it right the first time and save yourself a ton of grief.
P.S. Someone just brought to my attention about sand and air bubbles with gas and why stir. There is an alternitive to stiring the sand, and that is raking it slowly. This causes very little cloud if none.
[Updated on: Mon, 28 January 2008 20:33]
Please come visit me at www.atozthatsme.com
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| Topic: Homeade CO2 reactor |
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 Homeade CO2 reactor [message #5335] |
Sun, 25 March 2007 10:25 |
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Even the cheapest of CO2 reactors are nearly 30.00 and you have to constantly buy the tablets that go inside. I have found an easy and very inexpensive way to have one without forking out tons of money.
This is what I did.
I took a 2Lt Soda bottle that had been cleaned out and filled it with water to nearly the top of the bottle leaving just a few inches. Then I put that bottled water into a bowl and mixed with 1 tsp of bakers yeast and 1 Cup of sugar into the water. Let it dissolve and poured back into bottle. I drilled a hole the thickness of air tubing into the cap of said bottle. Put the tubing which was 6 ft long into the cap and pulled through only 1/4 of an inch and hot glued around the tubing on the inside and outside of the cap. You can also use silicon for this. I put an airstone at the other end of the tubing and planted it down under my gravel in the tank. Closed the lid really tight and placed on the floor next to my aquarium stand. Within 12 hours I started noticing little bubbles coming up from the airstone. Its at a very slow pace and seems to be at the right measured time for my 55 gal. You do not have to turn this off at nite. It runs constantly. It can take up to 3 days for it to start working and between 2-4 weeks before it is empty. The bottle does become underpressure so I don't suggest putting it in a place where it is going to get kicked. As long as the airstone and tubing remain clear and clean, there will not be any problems with bottle breaking. I suggest everytime you put a new bottle down that you take a tooth brush and clean the airstone. It has been a few days and I already noticed my plants finally growing and looking healthier. One important thing to watch for; fish going to the surface and gasping for air. You may see this with any CO2 reactor. If you do see this it means your water is getting too much CO2. One of the benefits of having a boughten one from a store is you can control the amount of CO2 that goes into your tank. My tank doesnt have any bubblers in it because I have really good filtration. If I should notice my fish doing this which they have not so far, I will put a bubbler in the tank. If they still go to the top, I will consider either putting a pin hole in the tubing a few inches above the water or putting a valve on the tubing to control the flow of CO2. It is my opinion though that the tank is getting just the right amount of CO2. My fish are still looking good and still full of energy. Don't forget, the more plants you have and the healthier they are, the more O2 is produced. When the plants are at their healthiest you can noticed O2 bubbles coming right directly from the plants. This is the goal to shoot for with plants.
[Updated on: Mon, 02 April 2007 10:20]
Please come visit me at www.atozthatsme.com
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| Topic: new tank |
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| new tank [message #4753] |
Tue, 13 June 2006 18:16 |
navycigarsmoker
Messages: 1
Registered: June 2006 |
Junior Member |
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Ok I had a few cichlids when I was stationed in Japan and I was really unsure about what I was doing. I am thinking about getting a new tank and I was hoping for some suggestions. Here is a list of fish that I am thinking about getting:
4- Yellow Peacock
4- Albino Peacock
4- Electric Yellow
4- Blue Peacock
4- Electric Blue
3- Pleco
Any suggestions on what size tank I should get. Along with filtration as well, and any other suggestions. Thanks.
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| Topic: 140 gallon Have a couple questions. |
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| 140 gallon Have a couple questions. [message #4220] |
Sun, 01 January 2006 01:04 |
MarkSmith
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2005 |
Junior Member |
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I have a 140 gallon tank. Its a 6' tank.
Will 2 xp3's cover filteration for fairly decent stocked tank?
(have about 30 mbuna right now)
Water changes weekly have proven enough. I have a blue cobalt something or other (pseudotropheus xxxxxxx I believe but not savvy on genus/species) Holding, along with a brown with dark brown vertical tiger striped fish holding... used to have labidochromis corneleus holding (had to leave tank in care of my father whom raises community fish. Part of his 'care' for his fish is adding aquarium salt. Didn't take long for them to start dying. The yellow labs didn't make it... the rest did)
The other question with the above info... will 'survival of the fittest' still lead to further crowding of my tank? I dont mind letting nature take its course... but I still dont want 100 mbuna in my tank. I like it the way it is now. (6 species)
Id have to take pictures and let you all ID them to make sure I have what I have.
PS I have three aulonacara (dont know what specific ones they are) Blue bodies... white top of their backs and head... yellow dorsal fins. Pretty... but I didn't realize they weren't mbunas when they were sold to me.
Teaches me what happens when I dont do research.
Thanks all... hope to gather a lot of info from this site.
Take care
Mark
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| Topic: Project Proposal... Two-tier rack... input / reviews request |
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| Project Proposal... Two-tier rack... input / reviews request [message #4129] |
Tue, 25 October 2005 01:39 |
BrownBullhead 
Messages: 58
Registered: May 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canad... |
Member |
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So I am thinknig of building myself a two-tier aquarium rack as shown in attached diagram... CLICK THUMBNAIL for fullsize image.
I am looking to utilize metal shelving, the industrial strength stuff, as each of these tanks should weigh almost 1000 pounds when filled and aquascaped. The rack will sit on a cement sub-floor in a basement in a spot where a 150-gallon currently sits... the 150-gallon will be sold or moved.
Some of my current considerations are...
... Tank rack to be slotted into 79" high x 53" wide "clothes closet" with sliding doors removed;
... Measure allowance for metal shelves, heights of various pieces of equipment, clearance from the floor, etc, all shown on left;
... To be determined... use 2700 kelvin "Aquarium" tubes or 5000 kelvin "Natural Sunshine" tubes;
... To be determined... use ONE or TWO Hydro Sponge (Size 5) sponge filters. EACH is rated for 125 gallon aquariums... this setup the aquariums are 70 gallons each;
... To be determined... what capacity air pump to operate Hydro Sponger 5 filter;
... Other considerations not yet factored ???
I am also going to have flaps hang down from the shelf about 13" to cover the area between the top of a tank, and the shelf above with the attached lighting ballast.
Does anyone have any input they would share on this project?
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| Topic: Another airstone question |
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| Another airstone question [message #4119] |
Fri, 21 October 2005 22:30 |
tgrogan
Messages: 36
Registered: September 2005 |
Member |
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I have a 55 gal tank, 48in X 13in X 18in. As far as actual water load, it is more like 44g, the substrate and rock work take up the other volume.
Anyway, the question I have is whether I really need an airstone. I have no idea how to determine the rate of gas exchange, or to know how much I need.
I have 5 Yellow Labs, 4 Cobalt Blues, 4 Red Empresses, and 4 Malawi Butterflies (Aulonocara Jacobfreibergi). One Danio.
All the fish are about 2" - 3"
The power filter seems to be circulating the water fairly well adn creates a small amount of air bubbles itself.
http://www.capitalcichlids.org
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| Topic: Early water changes |
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| Early water changes [message #3940] |
Sat, 17 September 2005 15:01 |
tgrogan
Messages: 36
Registered: September 2005 |
Member |
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With the addition of 16 small cichlids to my relatively new tank, I am monitoring the Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels on a daily/bi-daily basis.
What is the limit for Ammonia and Nitrite?
I plan to do weekly water changes in the 25% vicinity, but is there a limit on either Ammonia or Nitrite that should trigger a water change right away?
http://www.capitalcichlids.org
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| Topic: tetra whisper 700 air pump |
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| tetra whisper 700 air pump [message #3830] |
Wed, 17 August 2005 08:44 |
syr4227
Messages: 7
Registered: August 2005
Location: manchester uk |
Junior Member |
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when i bought my tank there was a tetra whisperer 700 air pump, well it was working fine until i had the bright idea of trying to udjust it  its got 2 screws on the side of the box so i unscrwed them thinking it would let more air through, but instead its stopped the air, theres a littel coming out of one outlet but nothing like it was.has anyone on here got one or knows how i get it working proper again?. thanks for any help.
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| Topic: Sump questions |
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| Sump questions [message #3792] |
Fri, 05 August 2005 17:53 |
Jagermiester
Messages: 8
Registered: March 2005
Location: Holland MI |
Junior Member |
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I have never used or had someone I know use a sump before. So, I
need a little help.
I got a good deal on a 90G tank with a sump and the holes in the
bottom of the tank already. I do not have the pump or hoses.
How do I know what pump I need?
What hoses do I need?
What do I need for the sump?
If I heat the sump should I still use 2 heaters?
Thanks for any help.
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| Topic: What to do in a power outage ? |
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| What to do in a power outage ? [message #3745] |
Fri, 08 July 2005 09:14 |
fishman99
Messages: 18
Registered: March 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI |
Junior Member |
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Hi everybody, how is everyone ? Good I hope.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me what to do if you lose power ?
Can Malawi Cichlids survive a 24-48 hour power outage or should I look into a compressor or something ?
I've got a 55 gal long with 8 juvenile Malawi cic's:
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Females
1 Auratus (Melanochromis Auratus)
1 Venustus (Nimbochromis Venustus)
1 Zebra Msobo (Metriaclima "Msobo")
1 Chipokae (Melanochromis Chipokae)
1 Kenyi (Metriaclima Lombardoi)
1 Electric Blue (Melanochromis Johanii)
Males
1 Orange Blotch Zebra (OB Metriaclima Zebra)
1 Sunshine Zebra (Metriaclima Zebra)
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Thx !
Fishman
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| Topic: New to African Fish, Need Help! |
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 New to African Fish, Need Help! [message #3711] |
Fri, 24 June 2005 18:05 |
Demane22
Messages: 1
Registered: June 2005
Location: PA |
Junior Member |
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I just purchased a 90 Gallon tank. I didnt want to get anything else because i dont know what the best equipment is to get. I wanted to know what heaters are good, i was told i should get 2 300w heaters for the 90 gallon. Also ive heard alot about the fluval 404 and the cascade 1500. Is there something better, i was leaning more towards the cascade, maybe even 2 of them. When i get ready to do my water changes i heard the python no spill was pretty good too. Any feedback from you guys will be very helpful. Thanks in advance!
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| Topic: Jewel and assorted??? |
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| Jewel and assorted??? [message #3698] |
Thu, 16 June 2005 19:21 |
newbie10
Messages: 1
Registered: June 2005 |
Junior Member |
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Hey everyone,
I have a 60 gallon tank which had a brandtii piranahha who, today, I transferred. I bought 10 assorted african cichlids today and up them in the 60 gallon. I have a few different peices of drift wood and store bought plastic rocks in the tank. I also have several plants. I've been working on the a home made tank stand for weeks on end. I'm in the final stages of the lid and the stand. The stand and lid are made out of cherry oak. I'll post photo's when it reaches completion. The back of the tank was painted with black silicon paint. The drift wood was collected by hand as well as treated and attached to plastic panels to hold it to the bottom. The sand in the tank is from a pool shop. It was also filtered and treated before it was put into the tank to cut down on cloudyness. One maxima air pump, pumps air through a tube buried in the sand. Two heaters heat the tank.
I was told that jewel cichlids act like americans(aggressive) and was told to be careful when combining them with africans. I was wondering if this is possible. Also if anyone has any comments about my tank setup I'm most definately open to all suggestions.
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| Topic: water wash |
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| water wash [message #3521] |
Fri, 25 February 2005 00:05 |
pseudotropheus
Messages: 30
Registered: January 2005 |
Member |
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Hello.
I am thinking of setting up a tank that is 37 gallons. I believe it is 22 inches tall. The thing is I would like to have a stack of rocks forming caves on the side(probably both sides)that would have an under gravel filter coming up behind the rocks producing a bubbling water over the top of the water level running down the exposed rocks. The water level would be an inch or two below (I'm guessing).
Any ideas on how to get this effect? I'm trying to create kind of a splashy shoreline. For those fish that prefer the bubbles. 
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| Topic: eheim filter |
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| eheim filter [message #3413] |
Sat, 08 January 2005 16:20 |
roadking02
Messages: 1
Registered: January 2005 |
Junior Member |
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I'm needing some help on spraybar placement. I've always used rainbow lifeguard canister system for my Africans. Do I need the spraybar to spray into the water, or along the top of water? to try and eliminate bubbles. Thanks!=D
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| Topic: curing driftwood |
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| curing driftwood [message #1385] |
Sun, 15 December 2002 19:22 |
bean
Messages: 14
Registered: December 2002
Location: northern indiana |
Junior Member |
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i was reading a old post on here about curing driftwood and i thought i 'wood' share how i do it.
the best place i found for collecting it is on the shores of the great lakes. the bark is gone and the wood is smooth for the most part. other places i have collected have been swamps, rivers and streams, during the dry season. lakes are great to when they drain them to repair dams.
when i get them home the first thing i do to them is place them out in the sun to dry. not only do they need to be dry for the next step but this helps to rid most of the critters living in them. the more dry the better.
next i sand blast them. this rids the loose wood, rot or anything living in them. i shoot at 200lbs psi. you can back off if your blowing them apart.
next i place them in tub. i first used a 55 gallon burn barrel cut in half. now i use a 90 gallon livestock tank. i hold them down with concreat blocks. i pour in a gallon of bleach and fill till they are covered. after about a week i drain it and fill it back up. i do this every couple of days for a month.
next i use a stainless steel screw and a piece of slate big enough to stack some rocks on to hold it down. drill the slate and screw it to the wood.
there you have it! i used to test with a few convicts but after never having any problems i dont mess with the testing ang more.
i know some fish like psuedo. aceii need a little wood to encourage the spawn. hope this helps! fish on!
later,bean
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| Topic: LINKS |
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| Forum: General Discussion |
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| Topic: Looking for info on the Para Tilapia polleni |
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| Looking for info on the Para Tilapia polleni [message #9909] |
Sun, 29 June 2008 10:55 |
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I am just curious. Does anyone know about these fish? I know they are endemic to Madagascar and they are very rare to have in an aquarium. There is someone in my area selling them in pairs. They have breeded them. I have googled them and get the same info that I just typed. But other then the people of Madagascar eat them, I haven't found a whole lot of info on them.
Please come visit me at www.atozthatsme.com
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| Topic: Another ID help question |
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| Another ID help question [message #9450] |
Mon, 07 April 2008 10:23 |
NewCichlidMom
Messages: 1
Registered: April 2008 |
Junior Member |
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Hi Everyone,
I'm new and would like some help IDing two of my fish. I believe they are Africans. I got them from a friend and I'm trying to get a comfortable home for them here in one of my tanks. If you have any idea what it might be just let me know. The other one is the same but a little more of a lavendar color. The tank they are in is a little to small and crowded for them. Their colors are very bright at the moment and they seem to be doing some kind of fishy slap and tickle. No fin biting just lots of snuggling. Here is a picture of the darkest one.
Thanks Everyone
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| Topic: Even More ID Help |
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| Even More ID Help [message #9263] |
Fri, 21 March 2008 22:10 |
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I do appreciate all your help
Kim
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[Updated on: Sat, 22 March 2008 14:52] by Moderator
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| Topic: bio-spira |
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| bio-spira [message #8978] |
Fri, 07 March 2008 18:49 |
honeybunny
Messages: 38
Registered: February 2008
Location: new york |
Member |
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hey guys,
my tank is finally cycled. the raw fish really wasn't working. i waited two weeks without fish just waiting for raw fish to rot in my tank. i read about bio-spira. it really works. i emptied my tank and started over. with the new tank i make sure the temp was correct and the ph was correct. i purchased bio-spira from lfs and 10 small cichlids. my tank cycled in four days while having fish to look at. all the fish is nice and healthy. none of them died. really good product.
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| Topic: bio-spira |
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| bio-spira [message #8920] |
Fri, 29 February 2008 18:19 |
honeybunny
Messages: 38
Registered: February 2008
Location: new york |
Member |
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hey guys,
i wanted to know if you knew anything about bio-spira? does it work?
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| Topic: I'm Back |
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 I'm Back [message #8397] |
Sun, 30 December 2007 23:17 |
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I'm back for awhile. Hope all has been good in my absence. Sorry about not getting to my private messages right away but I did answer them now. If anyone still needs help let me know. Let me fill you in for those who haven't seen me before. They call me Mother here. I have a 115 gal tank with approx 40 fish. I also have a 29 gal with two monsters that I have recently named Dr. Jeckle and Mr. Hyde. I had to take them out of my 115 malawi tank. They are also malawi but they are mixed that I got from someone off Craigslist. I also have a breeder tank with 25 sunshine peacock babies, about 3 weeks old. I have raised quite a few batches of babies, all malawis. Today we added a new long awaited fish to the 115 gal. A male electric blue ahli. I have had two females for the longest time but didn't want to add a full grown male due to possible aggression problems. So I found a two incher today that is the prettiest blue. He is doing fine in my tank. I have 15 mixed socolofi/kenyi They are a mix from my male kenyi and my female socolofi. I have two kenyi, male and female, 9 electric yellow labs, one is the mother. One female auratus that looks like a male but know she is a female because she gave me 25 babies. I got rid of the male before the babies were born. He was way to aggressive. I also have a multi colored peacock which is just beautiful, 2 OB peacocks, 2 Johanies, one fe and one male. Still waiting on them to give me a batch. They are young though. About 8 or so months, The three ahlis, a bumble bee which is one of my very first fish, 3 red zebras, one of which is a cherry red. And two Kribs. I may have missed a few, can't keep track of all them. I have tried tons of other fish and have made lots of trades till I got it right. These fish work great together. I have lots of hiding. I have done quite a bit of research on the malawi cichlids and have lots of experience. I was a moderator on here but then had to leave for awhile. Things here at home have calmed down quite a bit so I will try to help out as much as I can. I will admit that I don't like to be on the computer much these days, so I will try to get on atleast once a day to answer any questions. I would like to say howdy to all my friends, cichlidfinatic aka Rob, Bubba and the rest of you. You know who you are.
Please come visit me at www.atozthatsme.com
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| Topic: RED DEVIL FANS WELCOME!!! |
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| RED DEVIL FANS WELCOME!!! [message #8371] |
Tue, 18 December 2007 19:30 |
orcman7
Messages: 4
Registered: December 2007
Location: garden grove |
Junior Member |
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 my favoret fish has to be the red devil dont know why just is and i want to know what the world thinks of them
-OCP-
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| Topic: Fish Identity |
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| Fish Identity [message #8339] |
Sat, 17 November 2007 09:28 |
Dave448 
Messages: 51
Registered: June 2007
Location: Durham, England |
Member |
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Hi All
I have had my tank set up for four months now and all is still going well. I have started seeing baby fish swimming around but I do not know which fish they have come from as I haven't noticed any breeding activity. They are growing very quickly and seem to look very much like the fish in the attached photograph. Can anyone tell me what it is please?
Thanks
Dave
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| Topic: Lannon stone for my Cichlid tank? |
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| Lannon stone for my Cichlid tank? [message #8293] |
Sat, 20 October 2007 21:32 |
LovestheCichlids
Messages: 1
Registered: October 2007
Location: Midwest |
Junior Member |
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Hello all!
I just came from the fish store and I really would like to aviod spending 3.00 - 4.00 dollors a pound on stone for my 55g aquarium.
My Mother's husband said to go to the local stone quarry and get some Lannon stone and that I would pay less the 1.00 a pound there.
So my question is, is Lannon stone from Wisconsin safe for my beloved Cichlid tank??
Thanks all,
Your friend in fish,
Walter
To my wife Jackie,
To the world you are just one person, but to me you are the world.
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| Topic: FREQUENT QUESTION! |
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| FREQUENT QUESTION! [message #7814] |
Tue, 14 August 2007 01:28 |
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HOW TO CLEAR CLOUDY TANK WATER?
there are numerous posts by my self/ Malawi mother on help to fix this problem.
The most helpful is on tanks/filtering section posted by none other than MM herself. post shows proper ways to "CYCLE" the tank before fully stocking it to avoid cloudiness. In case if you don't already know the cloudiness is: ALGAE BLOOM its not harmfull it will pass not to worry just a part of the cycling process.
read that post thouroughly and pracitce it- it will cure any problem regarding cloudiness. That or you could hit up your local LFS and purchase Algae away or cloudy removal....
GOOD LUCK hope that helps for further question drop me a line
Rob
Cichlid Finatic
Patience is key for a successful Aquathusiast
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| Topic: Removed from "Texas Holey Rock" |
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| Removed from "Texas Holey Rock" [message #7321] |
Sun, 24 June 2007 15:43 |
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I am having some post removed from Texas Holey Rocks to here. They are mostly post with a few pictures questioning the type of fish in the pic. There is nothing being removed that shouldn't be removed. It will take a few days.
In the future, lets try to make new topics when leading away from the orignial authors thread title. I myself am guilty of this.
Thank You
[Updated on: Sun, 24 June 2007 15:55]
Please come visit me at www.atozthatsme.com
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| Topic: PYTHON |
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| Topic: Spawning vs Transferring of Eggs! |
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| Topic: Good Cichlid book... |
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| Good Cichlid book... [message #4900] |
Tue, 26 December 2006 15:48 |
JimH
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2006
Location: New England |
Junior Member |
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There are so many cichlid books out there....which one would most of you recommend that has a good balance of how to's, community ideas, and identifiable pix of the Africans?..particularly for Tangs?
Best....
Jim
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| Topic: Ph question |
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| Ph question [message #4895] |
Wed, 13 December 2006 09:39 |
lmckin1966
Messages: 1
Registered: December 2006
Location: East Texas |
Junior Member |
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I have a fairly new (May 2006) 55 gallon tank. I have set it up and added cheap fish to get the cycle going. I recently tried to add fish for the first time since initial set up and they are dying. The ph is stuck around 8.4. I have tried to treat for two weeks with chemicals waiting 48 hours in between treatments. It is not budging. I have been told that I might want to consider African Cichlids as they tolerate a higher ph well. Any advice?
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| Topic: Identify my Cichlid |
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| Identify my Cichlid [message #4894] |
Thu, 30 November 2006 15:25 |
forddna
Messages: 1
Registered: November 2006 |
Junior Member |
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He appears to be the same fish pictured on containers of TetraCichlid sticks. I'd like to know if anyone recognizes him..I want to be able to look up information on him. =)
He's very small. Maybe 2 inches in length.
Thanks!
Amanda
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| Topic: If you want fry don"t !!!! |
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| If you want fry don"t !!!! [message #4861] |
Sat, 07 October 2006 16:21 |
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Johanni ( Melanochromis) this is a beautiful fish to watch grow.The parent fish do a good job of birthing.The problem is the little fry will chase other fry.I have other fish putting out fry but none make it due to the Johanni fry eating them.I started with 6 Johanni and now have about 20.Its time for me to get rid of some back to the Aquarium store. 
Stonoman
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| Topic: Sick hap ahli |
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| Sick hap ahli [message #4831] |
Mon, 11 September 2006 09:19 |
seyeatman
Messages: 4
Registered: September 2006
Location: Wilmington, DE |
Junior Member |
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I have a 37 gallon tank. Filtration is an emporer 280. PH is 8.2 to 8.4. Ammonia is never over .25 ppm. I have several plastic decorations and some real red lava rocks. The fish have plenty of caves. I have seven juvenile fish in the tank. They are 1 yellow labido, 1 peacock, 1 birchardi, 1 red zebra, 1 elongatus, 1 unidentified african cichlid and the 1 electric blue hap ahli. All fish appear very healthy except the hap ahli. He(she?) has a constant gulping behavior and his eyes appear to be slightly bulgy (maybe more than slightly). I feed once a day as much as they can eat in approximately 2 minutes. When I first started the tank, I believe I was over feeding which caused the ammonia level to go to .50 ppm. However, after regualting the feeding, the ammonia is steady under .25 ppm. I also had a pumice stone in the tank at one point. It seemed to make the water cloudy, so I removed it and added some plastic decorations instead.
Has anyone ever heard of a hap ahli with this problem (or is it a problem at all)? Please help. Thanks.
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| Topic: Two died during the day? |
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| Two died during the day? [message #4830] |
Wed, 06 September 2006 17:40 |
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Lost 2 fish and I know the problem.Son gave me the koi food he feed his koi and cichlids.Its small and very hard.I thought today i would try it and so i did.Wish I had not due to the fish loaded up.One had at least 20 pellets in his mouth.I thought it would be ok and get soft.It takes a long time for this stuff to get soft.I came back and found 2 fish one dead and the other flopping around on the bottom.I got it out but it was already dead.I have for 3 months been feeding Tetra big flakes.lost a breeder female albino zebra.The other was a caeruleus one of 6 I have.Word of warning watch out what you feed your fish.
[Updated on: Wed, 06 September 2006 17:40]
Stonoman
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| Topic: new here would like some help |
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| new here would like some help [message #4823] |
Tue, 05 September 2006 09:19 |
new2this
Messages: 2
Registered: September 2006 |
Junior Member |
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Hey all. I've been keeping fish for a while had an oscar for 11 years and then a morey, jack dempsy and auratus for six more, but discovered that mixing fish and hoping they work is a poor idea. I have a 29 gallon tank, penguin 330 biowheel, airating powerhead, an aquaclear heater, natural colored gravle and various plants. Currently in this tank are four pictus cats, and a male green terror. I would like to add a couple chinese algae eaters. My question on this is, can I do this without overcrowding or is the green terror already to big of a cichlid and going to outgrow the tank. I've seen on many sites where they get 12" and on others where it's 6" for males and am not sure which is accurate. If I can't keep the terror in there forever, can I go with a electric blue hap male? I know he's not a digger and love the colors or maybe a jahani instead if the hap is to big for a 29. Preferable I can just keep the terror and all is well with 5 fish and maybe the algae eaters.
Sorry but there is a second question. I also have a GF with a 125 gallon and a C. Venezuela pike cichlid and an irrodecent shark. What other fish can be put in this tank for permanent tankmates for these to fish. The more colorfull the better. Thanks for the help.
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| Topic: This is a beautiful site for info. |
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| This is a beautiful site for info. [message #4821] |
Tue, 05 September 2006 08:32 |
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Lets get this site busy.I see lots of views but no posting.This site was set up and they did a fantastic job.Lets get moving people and use it.If We dont ask questions We can never learn.In two months I have become a Chiclid nut. Sorry about the flash.
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Stonoman
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| Topic: My filter |
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| My filter [message #4818] |
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Spawning vs Transferring of Eggs!
I always thought 'spawning' was the before time of transferring of eggs 
